fishing_tips

Are you ready for winter? A cold winter can mean some slow fishing unless you’re able to find fishing areas with some kind of warmth. That may take some running around with a thermometer with readings to tenths of a degree to find the warmest areas around.

Fish that have gravitated toward these areas will undoubtedly have a higher rate of metabolism, triggering a feeding response.
Finding these areas with your thermometer and scoping them out on the cold days could be the tip that might help you catch more fish.

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If there are bluefish in the area and they aren't coming to your slick, or the competition is heavy from other boats chumming, drop the chum bag down in the water and let the slick run heavy for a while. This can get things going and even steal a school away from a nearby boat. Once the action starts, back off on the chum or you'll end up feeding the fish instead of attracting them to your baited hooks. You can also spice up your slick with some liquid bunker oil, which is a trick the kingfish pros use. Take a plastic soda bottle, and poke a small hole in the cap. Fill the bottle about a quarter full with bunker oil, tie a piece of monofilament around the bottom and hang it upside down over the side. The bunker oil will slowly drip into the water, creating a monster slick on the surface and adding a lot of additional scent -- without adding more pieces of chum for the blues to eat. The slick is cooking, blues are there and it's time to get down to fishing. You can start out by baiting up a couple of medium weight outfits -- those 12-pound-test baitcasters are fine -- and set one up with no weight and the other with a 1/4-ounce rubber core or egg sinker. Put different baits on the two rigs, maybe a smelt on one and a bunker back on the other, and start drifting them back in the slick. Work your baits well back into the slick and if nothing happens, reel them back and do it again. After 15 minutes, if you haven't received a bite, start changing things. Switch baits, try more weight to get one of the baits deeper into the slick, try a red wire leader, or you can even switch one outfit away from wire altogether by using an 80-pound fluorocarbon leader to see if the fish are leader shy. Keep making changes until you get the fish going. Pay attention to currents and tides. Sometimes blues will not feed on a slack tide, but as soon as it starts running, they'll start eating. On some days, it seems that no matter what you do, the blues will be accommodating, but on others, they can be horribly finicky. On those days, until you hit on just the right combination, they won't bite. When bluefish are like that, keep switching things, making little changes. It can make the difference between getting bites and getting bored. If the bite is on and the fish are running in a specific size range, switch off to the tackle most appropriate to provide you with the most fun. If the fishing is hot and heavy, don't hesitate to switch away from bait altogether and cast spoons, jigs, bucktails or even poppers back into the slick. Poppers are particularly effective if you have the blues chummed up high in the water column. If you see them swirling on the surface, that's the signal for "poppers away!" It's also a good time to do a little fly-casting. Keep these suggestions in mind the next time you decide to go wrestle with hard-fighting blues. If you do, you're likely to have a great time with these wonderful fish. Get them really going in the slick and you will be going home arm-weary, tired, and content.

fishingsaltwater1.blogspot.com/

Trolling deep-diving crankbaits across rocky points may be one of the most-effective techniques anglers can use to catch big smallmouths. Bump the bait across the bottom, and crash it into underwater rocks to gain the attention and often the strike of a big smallmouth. Alternatively, try these proven techniques. Cast out light line and ultralight baits to catch big smallmouth in deep water. Fish a 4-inch worm and a 1/4-ounce jig on light spinning tackle along sheer rock bluffs. If you fish parallel to the bluffs and let your lure fall straight down beside the rocks, you’ll offer the smallmouth a meal it can’t resist. Fish a live-bait rig called a Roach Rig or a jig tipped with live bait for smallmouths.

On the live-bait rig, use a slip sinker – either a 1/8-ounce for shallow fishing or a 3/4-ounce for deep-water fishing. Fish a bright-colored sinker to get the bait to the bottom and to attract the smallmouth. Below the slip sinker, attach a rubber sinker stopper, a device that stops a sinker from continuing to slide down the line and allows you to adjust the length of line you want coming from the lead to the hook. Below the sinker stopper, tie a barrel swivel. To the other end of the barrel swivel, attach a piece of leader and a small hook. Bait with either night crawlers or leeches. On the jig rig, use a brightly-colored jig, and attach either a minnow, a leech or a night crawler to the hook as a trailer to catch the most smallmouths.

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The changing seasons are mood swingers for smallmouth, meaning you must be adaptable to trying different techniques and lures. Here are some pointers for the changing seasons. Jerkbaits: Many anglers fish jerkbaits for smallmouth using a fast action to incite a reaction bite. Instead, in the springtime, cast the jerkbait out, crank it down eight or 10 cranks pretty hard, stop it, and leave it stationary. Then use your rod tip to pull it slowly like you’d work a Carolina-rigged worm across the bottom. The bait will wobble slowly. Take up the slack, and once again pull the lure slowly with your rod tip. Fish a jerkbait in stained or cold water, especially when the temperature falls below 48 degrees. In clear water, fish a brightly colored jerkbait with a lot of red in it, a chrome with a blue back or a chrome with a black back. Soft Plastics:

To fish without your line twisting, tie a barrel swivel on your main line with a 6-inch leader the same size as the main line. Then, tie the hook going into the soft-plastic onto the leader. Once rigged, cast the soft-plastic bait close to the bank or to visible targets like brush, stumps and logs. Let the bait fall to the bottom, give it a twitching action to make it jump off the bottom, and then let it fall back to the bottom. Most of the time, you’ll never feel the strike; you’ll just see your line moving sideways. Crankbaits: Fish the brightest lipless crankbait you can find, like bright orange or bright chartreuse, around gravel flats. Even in stained water, the smallmouth will attack the bait. There’s something about fishing a bright-colored, fast-moving, rattling bait in shallow water that is irresistible to smallmouth.


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If you’re hoping to catch smallmouth in the summer, you need to know the type of structure and cover on which the fish are holding, and the way the smallmouth want the bait presented. Try these tactics to locate the fish and identify a pattern. Fish a fast-falling bait like a 1/2-ounce jig in the summer months when most lakes are relatively clear. To increase the speed of the jig on the fall, feed line to the jig when you cast it out to allow the bait to fall vertically. If the smallmouth doesn’t take the bait on the fall, hop the jig up off the bottom about 3 feet. Let the bait fall back on a slack line, watching your line as the bait falls for any interruption in the drop of the lure. Snatching the jig up off the bottom really fast and then allowing it to fall back to the bottom as quickly as it can drop triggers numbers of strikes from smallmouth, even if they’re not hungry. Make short casts, and rip the bait up off the bottom. The closer you are to your jig when you rip it, the more vertically it will jump up off the bottom. If you make a long cast and try and jump the bait off the bottom, the bait only may hop 3 or 4 inches, instead of jumping straight up off the bottom and falling back more vertically. Make longer casts when you locate a flat that holds a large number of scattered stumps to try and feel the objects with your jig. Use a dragging tactic until your jig hits a stump. Then, jerk the jig up to hop it over the stump, and let the jig fall vertically to get a smallmouth to bite.


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During the winter months, you’ll most often find big smallmouth on humps, ridges and ledges out close to the river channel. In some areas, the smallmouth may relate more to creeks than to the main river, depending on the history of the lake. At this time of the year, expect to catch the smallmouth in 18 to 20 feet of water, but always consider the clarity and the temperature of the water. A small, 1/4-ounce, black-and-blue or brown jig with a small pork trailer behind is productive for wintertime smallmouth. Don’t make as long a cast in the winter as you will in the spring and the summer. Wintertime smallmouth are more channel- or ledge-oriented, so you can catch them within no more than 20 yards of the edge of the lip of the break.

For the most success, don't hop your jig off the bottom dramatically; just barely hop it along the bottom. Fish this jig on 10- to 12-pound test line to get the jig down deep quickly and allow it to make tiny hops along the bottom. Keep your rod tip low or put it in the water when you reel in a smallmouth to keep the fish from jumping. If you see your line coming up, indicating that the smallmouth is trying to go airborne, put your rod tip even deeper in the water, and pull the fish sideways to keep it from jumping. Check your drag before you make that first cast to be sure it’s tight enough to set the hook yet loose enough to pull off drag, if a big smallmouth does start to run. Learning to use the drag system on your reel will help you land the smallmouth. Winter is the right time to catch big smallmouth.


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Smallmouth fishing at night is best around a full moon, particularly in April or May in shallow water. Throw crankbaits, lipless crankbaits, buzzbaits and three-bladed buzzbaits in about 4 to 6 feet of water. Also fish points of islands where water’s running over a point. When there’s not a current, fish flats. In other situations, try these helpful tips. Lipless crankbait: Throw this lure across shallow flats – places you’ll normally fish in the springtime. Smallmouths will be looking for crawfish or minnows, and they’ll swim much more shallow because the sun isn’t bothering them. Use a steady stop-and-go retrieve. Spinnerbait: Fish the lure using the same technique a Texas-rigged worm, by bottom hopping it off a steep bank. Use 12-pound-test high-impact line. Keep your drag set light, and use a medium/heavy action rod. Crankbait: Fish a stop-and-go retrieve to resemble a crawfish in 5 feet of water on 10-pound-test line with a cranking rod. Or, fish a watermelon-shad-colored crankbait with pearl and a green back along the edges of the creeks that lead into the main lake – anywhere you can catch a largemouth.


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Muscle beds are havens for smallmouth, which search out this obscure cover in search of crawfish. If you luck up on a shellbed, try these tips. * Fish a soft-plastic lizard or crawfish when the smallmouth are suspended over the shellbed. Fish lizards on Carolina rigs – each with a 5-foot leader and a 3/4-ounce weight. Use a 7-foot rod with a 12-pound-test main line. The slower you fish a Carolina rig, the more smallmouth you’ll catch. * Fish rough-bottom shell beds when smallmouth are on the bottom eating the crawfish and shad. Texas-rig a soft-plastic centipede in chartreuse-pepper (a bright color in a compact bait) out over the shell beds, dragging the centipede slowly on the bottom, reel-up the slack, drag the bait, and then reel it again. * Fish a 3/4-ounce spinnerbait or a Texas-rigged grub with a red hook in late-summer current. The current stirs up the bottom, causing the crawfish and the minnows to feed on the algae. The smallmouth will feed on the crawfish and the minnows by positioning themselves on the ends of humps in front of current, often in a dead spot right in the front of a stump or a log. Fish both the grub and the spinner bait on tight lines. When the bait hits the bottom, make about eight or 10 cranks to swim the bait just above the bottom. Then let the bait flutter back down. A smallmouth will hit the bait most of the time when the bait falls.


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To catch more and bigger smallmouth in the middle of a lake after the spawn, fish with different baits than what everyone else uses. Most anglers will be fishing a Carolina-rigged plastic lizard or worm on secondary ridges and points. Humps out in the middle of the lake – even distances from the bank – about 10-foot deep are other places where anglers will fish Carolina-rigged soft-plastics. Instead, use a jerkbait on humps in 5 to 10 feet of water, just like you do when fishing for largemouth. Jerk the bait three or four times, and then let it suspend for 15 to 30 seconds – a technique known as dead-sticking. Making long casts is the secret to fishing the jerkbait successfully in open water for smallmouth. Use 10-pound-test line, a baitcast reel and a 6-foot, 6-inch baitcasting rod. The further you stay away from the hump you’re fishing, the more fish you’ll catch. Another method that lets you fish differently from most anglers is to fish deep-diving crankbaits on these same humps.


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Smallmouth and jerkbaits are synonymous terms with anglers. The smallmouth is undeniably the most aggressive of the bass and its predator instinct is easily triggered by the jerking action of this “reaction bait.” Using a weighted jerkbait increases coverage of the strike zone, expanding the opportunities for using this lure throughout the year.

More than most lures, weighted jerkbaits demand the right "cadence" (retrieve timing) to draw strikes. This is because they're being used to tempt sluggish bass in cold water. Here are some retrieves to try: Sinking Retrieve (extremely cold water): Make a long cast to the target zone.As soon as the lure hits the water, jerk the rod tip sharply so the bait dives. Stop. Hold the rod parallel to the water and to the side.Twitch the rod tip, reel up slack, and twitch again, much as when fishing a plastic worm. Repeat. When properly weighted, the lure will sink slowly between twitches like a dying shad.Most strikes occur as the lure sinks slowly. Watch your line. If it jumps, set the hook hard. Remember that bass will be extremely sluggish in cold water.

Start by allowing at least 5 seconds between twitches. Vary the cadence until you contact fish. Suspending Retrieve (45-55 degrees): Repeat steps 1-5 above. When weighted properly, the lure will suspend between twitches, like a living baitfish.Begin by pausing 3 to 5 seconds between twitches. Experiment until you find an effective cadence. Watch for the line to jump, then set the hook hard. Ripping Retrieve (55-65 degrees): This retrieve works when the lure is weighted to either suspend or rise very slowly after being twitched. Make a long cast to the target zone. When the lure hits the water, sweep the rod tip from 3 to 4 feet to the side. This will cause it to dart and flutter like a fleeing baitfish. Pause 3 to 5 seconds while reeling up slack, then sweep rod again. Most strikes occur on the pause, when the lure either suspends or rises slowly. Watch your line and set the hook hard if it moves. Again, vary the cadence until fish react positively. Pros report waiting 10 seconds or longer between twitches at times.

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By June, spotted bass suspend on sharply contrasting bottoms, anywhere from 15 to 60 feet. During this time, you'll find the best success on cloudy days. Try fishing topwater lures or soft jerkbaits for spotted bass early in the morning or on cloudy days in 30 feet of water, making long casts with light line to catch the fish on top. Don't fish anything heavier than 12-pound-test line in June, but primarily use 8- or 10-pound-test monofilament line. Fish main river points, secondary points and around locks, dams and hidden structure for early summertime spotted bass. The fish will suspend above submerged road beds or hold on top, off to the sides or at the bases of the road beds. Early in the morning or on cloudy days, the spotted bass generally will concentrate above the road beds. When they see bait on the surface, they'll come up and take it. Know when power is generating and current is running to catch spotted bass. Current can be created by the generation of electricity, from boats going through locks and dams, or by water released for flood control. When the current is about to move through the area, the spotted bass nearby will go on a feeding frenzy. When topwater action is null use a drop-shot rig around underwater road beds. When drop shotting, use a 4-inch finesse worm in natural colors, like watermelon, green-pumpkin or red-pumpkin.


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You can catch spotted bass by fishing points with jigs, grubs and tubes in the winter, especially after a hard freeze is followed by a warming trend. Fish a 4-inch finesse worm in deep brushpiles, using a 1/4-ounce slip sinker up a 10-pound-test line on a heavy-action spinning rod. Fish vertically over the brush, and let the finesse worm get down in the tree. Shake the worm. Set the hook really hard, and start reeling as soon as you set the hook to get a spotted bass out of the treetop. Use this same strategy with either a brown or a green-pumpkin 3/8- or a 1/2-ounce jig for spotted bass.

If you don't get a strike, allow the jig to fall to the bottom on the next try. Then jerk the jig up off the bottom, and let it fall back in the cover. Spotted bass usually will take the jig on the fall. The wind seems to mass the shad on rocky points, and the spotted bass will position themselves beneath the shad when the lake's windy. Ripping a spinner bait from the bank out to deep water is the best way to catch spotted bass on windy days.


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Some of the most-productive areas for summertime spotted bass include rocky points, sheer rock bluffs, underwater railroad beds and current pulled through the dam. In all cases, remember that spotted bass are driven to feed by power-generating lakes. Fish main river points with small jigs, grubs and tiny plastic worms as soon as the current begins to run on the lake. Rocky points out on the main river will draw spotted bass like a magnet when the current first starts running when you fish these points with Carolina-rigged 4-inch plastic worms. Don't strike a spotted bass as soon as it takes the bait. Instead, retrieve the rig slowly, and let the hooks and the worms set them. Carolina rigging also catches spotted bass on main river ledges and points found on the underwater road beds in the middle of a lake. Another successful tactic is to troll a crawfish-imitating crankbait or a deep-diving crankbait. Troll over main river points, along rocky bluffs and on the edges of creek channels and river channels in the middle of a lake. Also troll across the tops or the sides of underwater roads. Tie a 1-1/2-foot-long leader made of 10-pound-test monofilament onto the back hook of the crankbait, and attach a silver spoon to the other end of the leader. If you troll deep-diving crankbaits with a spoon trailer, you'll have to reel it in constantly to take spotted bass off your lures. This tandem-bait trolling tactic will produce numbers of spotted bass.


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In the winter, places that pay the most spotted bass dividends include bridge pilings, and the junctions of creeks channels. Spotted bass always hold around bridge pilings in the colder months. Try these tactics and be sure the following lineup of lures is inside your tacklebox. A 3/4-ounce jigging spoon, dropped vertically and fished alongside the concrete pilings. A Carolina-rigged plastic worm, fished on points where a major creek empties into the main lake. A deep-diving crankbait, fished according to the prevailing current conditions. Depending on the pull of the water and the amount of current in the region, deep-diving crankbaits also can be quite useful for taking bass in a creek. A jig with a pork trailer, cast at piers located near deep water. A crankbait capable of working from 8- to-12 feet, where you can feel the structure each time the bait hits a bump. Work a crankbait as slowly as possible in these areas.


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December is a great month to fish for and catch spotted bass. Cool and often-unpredictable weather means spotted bass will be the most-dependable bass this month. Put up the Christmas tree and then go spotted bass fishing, trying deep-diving crankbaits in fire-tiger and the grey-ghost colors on 10-pound-test fluorocarbon line, using a slow to a medium retrieve. Since spotted bass react well to crankbaits with very-erratic actions, rip the bait two or three times, make four or five turns with your reel, and then start a slow retrieve again. The spotted bass usually will take the crankbait when the lure stops, after you rip the bait. Alternatively, fish a ½-ounce jig on points. Fish the jig with a slow retrieve, hop it along the bottom and up off the bottom, and then allow it to fall back almost on a slack line. The spots usually will take the bait when it's falling, after you've hopped it. For finicky spotted bass, try drop-shotting by putting a 1/4-ounce lead on the bottom of your line. About 10 or 12 inches up the line, tie on a 1/0 drop-shot hook on 6-pound-test fluorocarbon line. Either rig the worm wacky style, or nose-hook a green-pumpkin finesse worm. Of the two rigs, rigging the worm wacky style is generally the most productive for spotted bass in December. Fish this rig on the same main-lake points where you've fished the jig and the crankbait.

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To catch the biggest spotted bass in September, the best times to fish are from daylight until mid-morning. Fish main river points in 15- to 18-foot-deep water with 3/8-ounce jigs and jerkbaits in the ghost-minnow and the Tennessee-shad colors. Keep the bait moving on a fast twitch type of retrieve. Pause the bait once or twice during the retrieve, but generally keep it moving at a relatively-fast pace. Casts jigs prepped with plastic trailers on 14-pound-test line far out on main points. Big spotted bass may break your line, if you use 10- and 12-pound-test line. Jerk off the bottom, and if you don't get a bite as the jig falls or as soon as the jig hits the bottom, jerk it up off the bottom quickly. Fish a 1/2-ounce jig for spots, if there's a lot of wind. Motor your boat over points, look for manmade brushpiles in the 12- to 16-foot depth range, and then fish the jig around those brushpiles. You'll generally find the biggest spots on rocky points with brush on them, except on windy days. In such cases, fish the jig across the windblown points. The wind needs to blow on the bank for at least 1 or 2 hours before the spotted bass begin to congregate on the windy points. Fish points with a jig and a jerkbait at sunup. Then, if the wind begins to blow, move to the windy banks. Big spotted bass still will be holding on the points, if there's not current running through the lake during the first few hours of daylight. A perfect day for big spots will have cloudy, overcast weather with plenty of wind.


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March and April are perhaps the best months of the year for catching spotted bass. In early March, the spotted bass will move up from their deep-water haunts and start feeding in the shallows in preparation for the spawn. In early spring, fish with a 3/8- or a 1/2-ounce spinnerbait with willowleaf blades and a chartreuse-and-white or a solid-white skirt. Search for red clay banks where crawfish and shad congregate, which means spotted bass will go grocery shopping there. Fish a point with larger chunk rock instead of pea gravel. Fish your spinnerbait fast on 12- to 15-pound test line in water depths from 2- to 10-feet deep on these points in the early morning. As a switch-up tactic, switch to a Carolina-rigged plastic lizard with a 1/2-ounce sinker and fish waters 5- to 15-feet deep, during the midmorning period. You'll never need to fish more than 20-feet deep for spots during March and April. Target main river points and manmade brushpiles with the Carolina-rigged lizard. Use at least a 3- to a 4-feet-long leader and a leader line smaller than 12-pound test.


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During the summer, look for spotted bass on hard, sandy underwater points and hard-clay points in water 8- to 20-feet deep. Use a Carolina-rigged floating frog, so it floats up above the sinker. Since spotted bass eat frogs when they're in the grass or find frogs on points, the frog is a natural bait for spots. A Carolina-rigged frog in 8- to 20-feet of water will turn on the spotted-bass bite. When Carolina rigging, use 20-pound-test line for the main line. Put a 3/4-ounce bullet sinker up the line, a barrel swivel below the sinker and 18 inches of 10- or 14-pound-test line as a leader from the barrel swivel to the hook and the frog. Fish this rig on upriver points where there's a lot of current or on shallow points downriver. Drag the frog on the bottom. The only way you can fish this bait wrong is to fish it too fast. The spotted bass will annihilate the frog. They'll hit it hard and fast, and often they'll nearly knock your rod out of your hand. Set the hook the instant you feel the spotted bass bite, or else the spot will swallow the bait deep down into its mouth.

lakebass.blogspot.com/

Structure such as weeds, rocks, timber and manmade cover will attract and hold fish, both predators and prey. Walleyes will often relate to their choice of structure, holding along the outer edges while feeding on baitfish. They'll continue to maintain this position as long as they're not overly pressured. As angling activity increases, the fish will usually drop back within the heavy cover and become inactive. Some structure, like rock, is fairly snag-free unless the lure becomes wedged between them. Other types like timber or weeds may require modifications to the lure.
For example, to permit penetrating and working within the structure, hooks may need to be made weedless or partially protected from hangups. The position of fish in cover will often determine their aggressiveness and the approach needed to catch them. Active walleyes holding along the outer edges are relatively easy to reach with a variety of presentations. However, when they drop down into the thickest areas and are reluctant to strike, slow and careful finesse-style probing techniques will become necessary for bites.

Live-bait presentations are generally a must in these cases. If walleye anglers have a weak point, it's normally a reluctance to work thick cover with snag-resistant methods. Walleyes that suspend in open water or are relating to deep humps, points or other types of structure are easier to locate than those holding tightly to cover. Most moderately priced electronics today are capable of detecting the presence of suspended fish. Furthermore, open water is easier to work and is less restrictive due to fewer snags. To make open-water angling even more attractive, almost all standard walleye-angling techniques will work at one time or another. Vertical jigging, live-bait rigs, jigging spoons, bottom bouncers, trolling, casting or any of your favorite methods will, on certain days, take an abundance of walleyes from open water. A decisively better presentation in the previous scenario would be slow-trolling large crankbaits with built-in rattles. The lure should be trolled slowly to allow fish to home in on it in the dirty water while the rattles add to the vibrations normally given off by crankbaits.


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To find spotted bass during the summer months, study weather trends. In very hot weather as long as the lake level remains constant, spotted bass will hold on the edges of grassbeds or on the first underwater breaklines extending out from the edges of the grass. In such areas, you can fish topwater lures on the edges of the grass. Alternatively, work a buzzbait along the edges of the grassbeds. For an added kick of fun, try soft plastic frog in its natural colors.

Another proven technique involves fishing breaklines extending from the grassline, particularly those located in 8 to 12 feet of water that drop off to deeper water. Plan to fish these areas after the morning bite ends. Use a Texas-rigged plastic lizard, plastic worm or spinner bait or a Carolina-rigged plastic worm or lizard. Slow-roll a spinner bait with a gold or a silver blade along the edge of the lip of the break. Flip and pitch big plastic lizards and worms, like 9-inch worms or 8-inch magnum lizards in Junebug, green-pumpkin, watermelon-candy or redbug colors, into holes in the grass for an effective late-morning and most-of-the-day successful bass tactic. Screw-in a 3/8- to a 1/2-ounce weight to punch through thin grass at the surface. Once the soft-plastic lure reaches the bottom, hop it off the bottom one time before allowing it to fall back to the bottom. If you don't get a bite, reel it in, and move to the next spot you want to flip or fish.

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